A tuxedo is the most formal thing most men will ever wear, and it's worn on the nights that end up in photographs and memories for a lifetime. Here's how we help clients get it right, whether it's for a wedding, a gala or their first black-tie invitation.
Looks to consider
The Classic Peak. Black, peak lapels with satin facing, one button. Never wrong.
The Midnight Shawl. Midnight blue with a shawl collar for a quietly memorable evening.
The Summer Dinner Jacket. Ivory jacket and black trousers for warm-weather weddings.
1. Know what black tie means
A tuxedo, or dinner suit, is evening formalwear. What sets it apart from a suit:
- Faced lapels: satin or grosgrain on the lapels and covered buttons.
- Matching trims: a satin or grosgrain waistband and a matching stripe down the outside of each leg.
- Clean lines: traditionally no flap pockets, no vents and no belt loops. The trousers are worn with a clean waistband, with the option of suspenders.
If an invitation says "black tie," this is what it's asking for. "Black tie optional" means a tuxedo is welcome and a dark suit is acceptable.
2. Choose your lapel
For a tuxedo or dinner jacket, we prefer a peak or shawl lapel.
- Peak lapel: the most formal and the classic choice. Broadens the shoulders and looks sharp in photographs.
- Shawl collar: a smooth, rounded lapel with old-Hollywood elegance. Softer and a little more relaxed.
- Notch lapel: borrowed from everyday suits. Acceptable, but the least formal of the three.
3. Select your fabric
Fabric selection can be overwhelming, so we'll guide you through the formal cloths we've worked with for decades: wools (especially barathea and faille), wool and mohair blends, wool and silk blends, and silk dupioni. We'll recommend a fabric that suits your occasion, weighing its weight, breathability, durability, wrinkle resistance and how it photographs. Then there's the color:
- Black: timeless and always correct.
- Midnight blue: a very dark navy that reads as richer than black under evening light, and the choice of many of the best-dressed men of the last century.
- Ivory or white dinner jacket: for warm-weather and destination events, typically worn with black trousers.
4. Custom or ready-to-wear?
A custom made-to-order tuxedo starts at $2,150. It's cut from a pattern drafted for you and hand-tailored in our Brooklyn factory, with your choice of lapel, facing, buttons and every other detail. Allow at least 8 weeks to avoid any rush.
Ready-to-wear tuxedos, including peak lapel and shawl lapel styles, are made in the same factory and available now. A good choice when time is short.
Book a custom appointment or shop ready-to-wear tuxedos.
5. Complete the look
- Shirt: a textured white if you'd like a more modern look, or a turndown collar with a pleated or piqué front. Studs and French cuffs with cufflinks complete it.
- Bow tie: black, matching the lapel facing.
- Waist: we love a vest. It keeps your shirt neatly tucked and lets you take off your jacket later in the evening while still looking finished.
- Shoes: black patent leather, velvet slippers or highly polished black oxfords.
6. Grooms and wedding parties
For a wedding, we recommend starting with us 3 to 4 months before the date, and earlier for a group, especially if groomsmen live out of town. Many grooms choose a custom tuxedo for themselves, with groomsmen in a coordinated look. We'll help you plan fabrics and details so the whole party looks considered in photographs. See our Wedding & Event Planning page for the full timeline.
Ready to start?
Book an appointment at our factory, 3rd Floor, 239 Varet Street, Brooklyn, or call (718) 497-5480. Have more questions? See our FAQ.